Author Archives: apahartnoll

The Smoke That Thunders

It was half past four in the afternoon and we’d just crossed the border into Zambia.  The cab of Delilah was filled with a warm evening breeze as we descended through expansive rain-forest into Mpulungu; a small fishing village nestled … Continue reading

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Silver linings

It had been a nervous night waiting the outcome of Delilah’s electronic repairs.  An early wake up call heralded the arrival of Julius.  Within thirty minutes he’d worked his magic on Delilah fixing the starter motor and the electronic short. … Continue reading

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The road less travelled

With its jagged shoreline surrounded by stepped hills Lake Bunyoni provided the perfect getaway after the drama of the past day.  We spent one night relaxing along its edge before moving to a backpacker lodge called Byoona Amagara on Itambira … Continue reading

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Muzungus in the mist

After two weeks in Uganda I was starting to get itchy feet.  It was time to get back on the road and back to the trip.  Upon leaving Jinja, Delilah was full of a mixture of new friends.  Simon and … Continue reading

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First impressions.

Leaving Nanyuki we took the road south looping around the Aberdares, through the Tea fields of Nakuru, and up to Kisumu where we encountered a mechanic furiously waving his arms at us yelling: “Your wheel is wobbling!”.  Co-incidentally we had … Continue reading

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The path to paradise begins in hell

Dark rain clouds greeted us on our arrival into Addis Ababa the capital of Ethiopia.  The roads here swelled with traffic, where the timid stood still and only the bold got through.  We found our way onto Chruchill avenue sidling … Continue reading

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Mad dogs and Englishmen

On the seventh of November we got up early to do our final few preparations before our departure.  De-dusting Delilah, checking tyre pressures and refuelling.  Throughout the morning the other drivers arrived: first Hennock the veteran in his Nissan pathfinder, … Continue reading

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The accidental pilgrim

At the border we got up early to beat immigration with the understanding that the Sudanese went for lunch from 12pm to 2pm and the Ethiopian’s from 2pm until 4pm.  In the rush, we set off with our sleeping bags and mattresses … Continue reading

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A horse with no name

If you consider Egypt part of the middle east rather than Africa, Sudan was to be the true start of our African adventure but to our frustration we had to wait a little longer.  Due to territorial disputes the land … Continue reading

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Insha’Allah

The wind had dropped and the weather cleared so the passage to Damietta was relatively calm, which was re-assuring considering all twelve drivers on board were locked in a small section of the vessel.  It contained our bunk rooms and … Continue reading

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